Dear Chris, As I write this now, I’m in a tourist service Sprinter van whose driver wanted to pick up more passengers from Ollantaytambo to Cusco via Chinchero. It’s Mother’s Day and I’m headed for Chinchero to put flowers on your grave. This place has changed so much in the past 42 years. I hope […]

So, I’m doing a thing. When I set out to try to plan this venture, initially, a few years ago, I thought I was completely different from my parents. We’ll come back to that. I guess the idea for this whole thing started at my mother’s velorio — her wake, basically. We buried her in […]

Dear Chris, Well, it doesn’t get any easier. Today, you would be 70. Five years ago today was the last time I wished you a happy birthday, and the last time anybody heard from Molly. I spend a lot of March 9ths bursting into tears suddenly, and today’s really no exception. And yeah, to be […]