{"id":1645,"date":"2006-12-11T11:17:59","date_gmt":"2006-12-11T16:17:59","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.abbysyarns.com\/wordpress\/?p=19"},"modified":"2006-12-11T11:17:59","modified_gmt":"2006-12-11T16:17:59","slug":"leslies-sweater-yarn","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/abbysyarns.com\/webshop\/2006\/12\/11\/leslies-sweater-yarn\/","title":{"rendered":"Leslie&#8217;s Sweater Yarn"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>A few weeks back, I embarked on an exciting custom spinning project for a longtime friend, who wrote me to say she was ready to start knitting the sweater of her dreams, and did I have the right yarn for it by any chance? I wrote her back immediately telling her I insisted she let me design and spin her the perfect yarn for this specific sweater, and including a list of questions.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Do you have a pattern in mind, and if so, what yarn does it call for?<\/strong><br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/theknittinggarden.com\/patterns\/db-book5\/classic-jacket.htm\">The Debbie Bliss Classic Jacket<\/a>, which calls for Debbie Bliss Cotton Cashmere, which should knit to a gauge of 5.5 stitches to the inch, or more specifically, a 4&#8243; square (10cm square) should contain 30 rows and 22 stitches, using US size 5 needles. <\/li>\n<li><strong>Tell me about how you plan to wear it, care for it, and what you have in mind ideally.<\/strong><br \/>\n<br \/>Not too fuzzy. More sleek than fuzzy. I like some fuzz but I also like to see my stitches. Some texture but not a ton. A little lumpy is fine. I made a sweater out of Manos del Uruguay this year &#8212; my big project. I loved it. But I don&#8217;t want something so thick and thin as that. A few knots or lumps here and there are fine, even desirable, but no sense in me making something in a very similar yarn to what I made this year. <\/p>\n<p>No shedding. Hand wash. It&#8217;s baggy. I&#8217;m going to wear it with everything &#8212; white blouses and skirts for work, white t shirts and jeans and boots the rest of the time. I like really soft yarn. Give or what you call memory is important to me. Warm isn&#8217;t that important to me. I live in California still. But I do like wool, natural fibers for sure. If it is warm, great too.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Reviewing these needs, it was clear that major design elements for this yarn should be strength and a fair amount of resistance to pilling. It would need a comfortable balance between sweatery drape and being lightweight, make a firm fabric with a gentle hand, be next-to-skin soft and have plenty of bounce. As for colour, we were shooting for a variegated cornflower blue.<\/p>\n<p>For the fibers, I chose to blend a midrange commercial merino top (64&#8217;s grade), natural-coloured tussah silk top, and light brown loose Chinese cashmere. <\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/abbysyarns.com\/albums\/lmsweater\/20061201_002.thumb.jpg\" alt=\"64's grade commercial merino top\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/abbysyarns.com\/albums\/lmsweater\/20061201_003.thumb.jpg\" alt=\"Light brown Chinese cashmere\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/abbysyarns.com\/albums\/lmsweater\/20061201_005.thumb.jpg\" alt=\"Natural-coloured tussah silk top\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Step one was to ballpark the amount of each that I&#8217;d need, and dye them. I went with 10 ounces of merino, 8 ounces of silk, and a little over 2 ounces of cashmere, each of which I split into separate small batches of varying sizes, and dyed in different shades of blue, from electric and robin&#8217;s egg to royal blue to violet and deep eggplant. With each natural coloured fiber being a little different, and in particular the cashmere being brown, the resulting range of blues encompassed probably 30 shades in all. <\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/abbysyarns.com\/albums\/lmsweater\/20061201_017.thumb.jpg\" alt=\"Merino top, dyed variegated blues\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/abbysyarns.com\/albums\/lmsweater\/20061201_018.thumb.jpg\" alt=\"Light brown cashmere, overdyed in varied blues\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/abbysyarns.com\/albums\/lmsweater\/20061201_019.thumb.jpg\" alt=\"Tussah silk, dyed in varied blues\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Once dyed and dried, it was time to blend the fibers with my drum carder, the trusty Cardzilla, a Strauch doublewide motorized model, the muscle car of carders, complete with footprint gas pedal and stickers from MSD and Edelbrock (okay, those parts actually went on the &#8217;72 Pontiac, but the stickers belonged on Cardzilla). And Cardzilla&#8217;s foot pedal is still just round &#8212; still haven&#8217;t found the right size footprint one, but I&#8217;ve been keeping my eyes peeled.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/abbysyarns.com\/albums\/lmsweater\/20061204_010.thumb.jpg?h=100\" alt=\"Cardzilla\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/abbysyarns.com\/albums\/lmsweater\/20061204_007.thumb.jpg\" alt=\"The blend\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/abbysyarns.com\/albums\/lmsweater\/20061204_013.thumb.jpg\" alt=\"The Blend, on Cardzilla\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p>After several passes through Cardzilla, I had a total of 14 batts weighing 1.5 to 2.5 ounces each, all three fibers evenly distributed throughout all of them, but with some variegation in colours carefully preserved. <\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/abbysyarns.com\/albums\/lmsweater\/20061204_018.thumb.jpg\" alt=\"Carded blended fiber, ready to spin\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/abbysyarns.com\/albums\/lmsweater\/20061204_028.thumb.jpg?h=114\" alt=\"Batts ready to spin\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p>At 50% merino, 40% tussah silk, and 10% cashmere, these batts are light, fluffy, lofty, and incredibly soft. Carrying them around from one lighting zone to another, the colours in them shift. I allowed for extra fiber for sampling and swatching purposes, but no sooner did I finish these batts than I found myself really wishing I&#8217;d doubled the recipe, so to speak, and planned to spin some of this for a sweater for myself. With any luck I&#8217;ll end up with enough left over for a scarf or a shawl. The blend is totally unfair and irresistible. It&#8217;s similar to one I&#8217;ve done many times before in natural colours, saving the dyeing for later&#8230; it&#8217;s just a really delightful blend and I&#8217;m thrilled with it (hopefully, Leslie will be too). <\/p>\n<p>With the blend complete, it was time to do some sampling. I spun one batt up in a not-so-fine single, which in turn I plied in several ways, then swatched, to get a sense of exactly how I wanted to spin and ply.  To do this quickly from one bobbin, I first wound a center-pull ball, then wound several other balls from this one: another center-pull ball with two strands (this was the largest), a triple-stranded Peruvian-style ball, and a smaller double-stranded Peruvian-style ball. <\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/abbysyarns.com\/albums\/lmsweater\/20061210_017.thumb.jpg\" alt=\"Single-ply yarn\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/abbysyarns.com\/albums\/lmsweater\/20061210_004.thumb.jpg?h=141\" alt=\"double-stranded center-pull ball\"  data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/abbysyarns.com\/albums\/lmsweater\/20061210_007.thumb.jpg?h=141\" alt=\"triple-stranded Peruvian-style ball\"  data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p>I set aside about 30 yards of the single to swatch as well, just for kicks, even though I knew there was no way it would knit to gauge, nor would it have the appropriate wear characteristics. This single, I had allowed some variegation in thickness as Leslie had said she found some variegation in texture desirable.  In any case, I wanted to test a 2-ply yarn, a 3-ply yarn, and a cabled yarn (the 2-ply, plied with itself). I felt it was most likely that the 3-ply would be the yarn we were after, but I have also had great results from similar blends in a 2-ply yarn so I figured that was worth testing as well; and as for the cabled yarn, while I was fairly sure that would be denser than we wanted, I also thought this blend would just make a beautiful cabled yarn and had to give it a whirl. <\/p>\n<h3>Single-ply yarn, swatched on US size 3 needles:<\/h3>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/abbysyarns.com\/albums\/lmsweater\/20061210_018.thumb.jpg?h=110\" alt=\"singles yarn\"   data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/abbysyarns.com\/albums\/lmsweater\/20061210_030.thumb.jpg?h=110\" alt=\"Singles Swatch\"  data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><br \/><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/abbysyarns.com\/albums\/lmsweater\/singleswatch.sized.jpg?w=301\" alt=\"Singles Swatch, backlit\"   data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Top left: the yarn; top right, the swatch in progress; bottom, the swatch, backlit so you can see clearly how open and thick-and-thin this looks. It&#8217;s pretty, but not strong or long-wearing or sweater fabric or remotely close to the gauge we&#8217;re after! <\/p>\n<h3>2-ply yarn, swatched on US size 4 needles:<\/h3>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/abbysyarns.com\/albums\/lmsweater\/20061210_026.thumb.jpg\" alt=\"2-ply yarn\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/abbysyarns.com\/albums\/lmsweater\/2ply03.sized.jpg?h=150\" alt=\"2-ply swatch\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><br \/><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/abbysyarns.com\/albums\/lmsweater\/2plyswatch.sized.jpg?w=370\" alt=\"2-ply swatch, backlit\"  data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Top left: 2-ply yarn; top right: swatch knit on US size 4 needles, 24 stitches to 4 inches\/10 cm; bottom, swatch backlit to show consistency and fabric density<\/p>\n<h3>3-ply yarn, swatched on US size 5 needles:<\/h3>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/abbysyarns.com\/albums\/lmsweater\/20061210_025.thumb.jpg\" alt=\"3-ply yarn\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/abbysyarns.com\/albums\/lmsweater\/3plyswatch.sized.jpg?h=150\" alt=\"3-ply swatch backlit\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><br \/><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/abbysyarns.com\/albums\/lmsweater\/20061210_058.sized.jpg?w=393\" alt=\"3-ply swatch\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Top left: 3-ply yarn; Top right: backlit swatch on US size 5 needles; bottom, swatch with measuring tape showing gauge, 18 stitches to 4 in \/ 10 cm<\/p>\n<h3>4-ply cabled yarn, swatched on US size 5 needles<\/h3>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/abbysyarns.com\/albums\/lmsweater\/20061210_044.sized.jpg?w=300\" alt=\"Cabled Yarn\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><br \/><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/abbysyarns.com\/albums\/lmsweater\/20061210_045.sized.jpg?w=300\" alt=\"Swatch, cabled yarn\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Top: cabled yarn sample: the 2-ply yarn shown above, plied with itself in the opposite direction of the original ply (same direction as spin). Bottom: swatch knitted on US size 5 needles, 4 stitches to the inch.<\/p>\n<h3>The final analysis<\/h3>\n<p>In the final analysis, and after consulting with Leslie about whether or not she&#8217;s a tight knitter, and re-swatching the 3-ply on size 4 needles myself, I deemed the 3-ply yarn to have the right drape and wear properties, and made the decision to thin down the production singles a little and do a 3-ply yarn. <\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/abbysyarns.com\/albums\/lmsweater\/bobbinsingle.sized.jpg?w=300\" alt=\"Singles on the bobbin\" align=left hspace=4 data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/> I&#8217;m now entering production mode for the yarn; see the start of a single at left. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>A few weeks back, I embarked on an exciting custom spinning project for a longtime friend, who wrote me to say she was ready to start knitting the sweater of her dreams, and did I have the right yarn for it by any chance? I wrote her back immediately telling her I insisted she let [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"pmpro_default_level":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"footnotes":"","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false}}},"categories":[27,31,37],"tags":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p9Duui-qx","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/abbysyarns.com\/webshop\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1645"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/abbysyarns.com\/webshop\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/abbysyarns.com\/webshop\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/abbysyarns.com\/webshop\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/abbysyarns.com\/webshop\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1645"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/abbysyarns.com\/webshop\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1645\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/abbysyarns.com\/webshop\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1645"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/abbysyarns.com\/webshop\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1645"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/abbysyarns.com\/webshop\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1645"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}