About Abby Franquemont

Abby Franquemont was raised to be a fiber artist starting before she could walk and talk. She has been spinning, weaving, knitting, crocheting, and more for over 30 years.

Why Spin Traditional Yarns?

In this day and age and in this western Europeanized culture, when spinning isn’t exactly something that is done out of necessity; when we have developed machines to do our spinning for us, is the effort to spin nice plain “traditional” yarns really just a sort of backwards timewasting (not taking into account the funness factor)? And the time and effort of handspinning would be better directed toward novelty/art type yarns of a sort that aren’t practical for various reasons to produce in an automated process?

Thanks to Geekling for the question.

This is the central question that I have struggled with for a great deal of my life, having grown up a weaver and spinner and in part, outside of the modern industrialized world. Many times in my life I have asked myself what, if anything, it means that I’ve achieved the skill levels that I have in the textile arts — and what value do these skills have in the modern world?

Certainly these skills are not valuable because without them, I would go unclothed (or clad in skins) — as would have been the case before industry and mass production. Unlike cooking — an archaic skill with modern interpretations and adaptations which most people roundly agree remains useful — textile production is no longer in any way essential to our daily lives. While most people will, at some point in their lives, have reason to be intensely grateful that they can cook, or negatively affected by inability to do so, most people in the modern world can cruise through their entire lives without ever having to produce a textile object of any type.

So what value is there? I think there are several factors at play, for me personally, narrowing the focus solely to spinning traditional-style yarns, which is a small subset of the textile techniques I personally consider extremely important. I’m also leaving out “fun” as your question says to do.

First, although it is possible to buy many kinds of yarn which are commercially produced (and cloth, and clothing) at a lower cost than the time invested to produce the same thing would be worth at even minimum wage, the truth is that the ability to produce your own goods exactly to your specifications allows you a much broader range of options than if you are forced to select from pre-fab goods. This could be compared to saying, in a world where you can buy chicken soup in a can, why would anyone bother making it from scratch? The answer is that the chicken soup from scratch is very likely just a superior product to that in a can, or made from a recipe that is unique and not found on the mass market. Clearly, for many people, that’s not a sufficient reason to bother with all the hassle involved in making homemade chicken soup, or baking your own bread, or whatever. But for others, there is something that makes it unquestionably worthwhile to have, say, great-grandma’s chicken soup just the way you want it.

The development of machines to make textiles is truly one of the most pivotal revolutions in history. Truly, it changed the world utterly, and unlike many other technological revolutions, did such a good job that it rendered itself all but invisible. But essential to the actual adoption of technological, mass-produced goods is the willingness of individuals to accept a lesser product than what can be custom-produced. We accept clothing that comes close to fitting, but that doesn’t fit us as well as something made expressly for each individual. We accept fabric that doesn’t wear as long, because it will be trivial to replace. We accept yarn that isn’t really as good or quite exactly what we want, because we can have it NOW, and we don’t have to learn to produce it.

Another factor is that there is value in the preservation of knowledge. All knowledge. Even apart from the fact that mastery of traditional techniques can allow for greater control and range of options in producing things that aren’t practical to mass-produce or make by mechanized means, there is historical value in making sure that things of the past are not lost from the world. As many people will agree that there is value in studying, say, hieroglyphics, or researching construction methods used in ancient Rome, so too there is value in researching, understanding, and preserving textile technologies. I would argue that it is all the more essential that these be learned by active practitioners, as there is far more to truly skilled textile production than can be simply written down, or than can be gleaned from examining old objects, old tools, and so forth. What’s more, because textiles are so commonplace in our lives that we don’t even think about them most of the time, I would contend that textile technologies are at far greater risk of becoming lore that is truly lost — a loss that impoverishes the entire world. Assuming, of course, that you believe as I do that there’s value in history.

I also personally believe that there’s value in really understanding things — that understanding the principles, premises, and so forth allow you to really maximize what you’re able to get out of technology, even. For example, I believe that if you drive a car, you’ll be a better driver for knowing how to drive stick, how gears work, when to use what kind of gear, and so forth — even if you drive an automatic transmission. And understanding how brakes work, what they do when they’re working well and what they do when they aren’t operating at peak efficiency, not only makes you safer and happier about driving, but lets you identify when it’s time to perform maintenance — even if you just pay someone else to do the maintenance. And you’re better off having a sense of whether or not a brake job is a big, hairy deal or a minor thing — you will be less vulnerable to being taken advantage of by an unethical repair person, for example. So too with producing textiles: knowing how to do it, what the materials are, and so forth, can make you a better judge of value when you do go to buy mass-produced items. Or handmade items, at that.

The final value factor for me is a little harder to nail down. That value is that it is worth developing skill to create even that which can be done by a machine. Machines are, at their root, devices contrived to do that which humans can do, thus liberating humans to do other things; or devices to simplify and aid in the objectives that humans wish to achieve. The relationship between humans and machines is a theme that runs throughout all of our daily lives, and has throughout history and across every culture of which I have any knowledge whatsoever. In thinking about that… I really like this quote:

One machine can do the work of fifty ordinary men. No machine can do the work of one extraordinary man.
~Elbert Hubbard, The Roycroft Dictionary and Book of Epigrams, 1923

There are countless stories, tales, fictions and realities of the struggle of man vs. machine. In producing more traditional handspun yarns, where similar goods are produced by machines, am I some sort of textile John Henry? Well, perhaps. But time and again we see that there is some intrinsic desire that humans have to do the work ourselves, for reasons which are perhaps primal and hard to quantify. I am called to by forces I can’t fully verbalize, that exhort me to engage in textile production and to preserve the lore of doing so. Others are called to by forces which say, “Make music, even though machines can do that,” or “Write stories, even though people watch TV more than they read these days.” It is a part of the human condition — and answering those calls has a real value, even though it is very hard to put into words.

Originally posted in livejournal.com “Spinning Fiber” community, 2005

Hot Yarn Porn!

All yarn pr0n all the time! The past week or so of yarn.

Exciting yarn pr0n! Hot mohair action! Thrilling blends! Commercial alpaca!

Click any picture to go to the photo gallery (and you can leave comments and questions on the photos there if you like, too).


One ply kid mohair, one ply tussah silk, appx 2400 ypp


One ply merino/tencel, one ply merino/tussah silk, one ply space-dyed in the roving tussah silk


2-ply alpaca from commercial combed top

Next up: Deciding whether, and how, to dye the mohair/silk, and what purpose it’ll be put to. I’ve decided that 1.5 lbs or alpaca is going to be a cabled sweater, which means I won’t be getting to it anytime soon, and I’m going to deliberate about pattern, and doubtless come up with my own to a degree so that I can be one of the cool people who does that. The purple 3-ply tweedy giant skein is like 850 yards and, given an appropriate pattern, could be a close-fitting lacy sweater with a nice drape to it. With 3/4 sleeves and a wide neck, cropped. Haha.

I should be working on the shawl for my mother-in-law also, of course.

Next up spinning stuff: if there’s a Fiber Friday theme I’ll do something for that, I figure. I have this one bag of maybe a pound of blended interesting colour stuff I bought off ebay a while back, that I spun some of 2-ply and so now, of course, I have to come back and match that like a year later. I’m on a mission to spin my way through all the stuff that doesn’t readily fit in a neat location in my new stash organization scheme. Because if nothing else, the yarn’ll store in less space and it’s that much closer to being used for something, I guess.

I want to do some blending… but, I’m waiting for my new motorized Fricke drum carder, which I hope will get here in time for the weekend. It would be sweet to be playing with it this weekend. And now that I have solved my drum carder quandary, I have to also choose, then score, a floor loom. Then maybe I could chill out for a bit and just be productive.

Projects, Projects…

A handful of recent projects. Lace knitting, even…

I started this in September as a “should take a while” project when we flew to Connecticut for my father’s memorial service, and finished it last week on vacation in Ohio:

http://ucan.foad.org/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=200402-shawl-01


It’s elann.com “Baby Cashmere,” which is a cashmere/merino/alpaca blend. One large panel with the leafy thing, two small end panels that are zig-zags, knitted; then each panel edged and straightened out some with single crochet then simple filet crochet border, then sewed together, then a simple crochet edging all around.

The major point of this project was prototyping for the shawl I figured on having made for my mother-in-law for this past Christmas, from this yarn that I spun last summer:

Impossible to photograph the yarn, and it turns out, even harder to photograph in progress

once it’s finished and blocked I’m sure it’ll look better. I’ll have to take pictures in daylight probably.

Included in the album are 2 photos of the swatch for it — it’s the leafy pattern, with central diamonds, and leaves have sorta diamondy vines around the center diamonds, which are going to occur throughout, and… well, okay, it’s just not gonna look right until it’s done and blocked and stuff.

Aaaaand a small amount of spinning:

I had 2 pounds of this commercial alpaca top in my stash when I sorted it the other week, and resolved to spin it all up reasonably fine, to get the hang of the new accelerating head for the Suzie that Chad gave me for my birthday. Turns out, inidentally, that I can cram about 8 ounces of this on a standard Majacraft bobbin:


That one’s not quite full yet. Once I get a pound — about 8 oz on each of 2 bobbins — then I’ll get back to the plying. I got about 6 oz onto the Woolee Winder bobbin, so I figure I’ll get another skein around that size off, then cram those 2 bobbins the rest of the way full again, using up the remainder of the yarn, and then ply for 17,000 years and be done with it. Then I’ll try to figure out what to do with the yarn.

Summer Sweater, WIP

It’s been too hot to spin, so I’ve been covering myself in yarn instead.

This was a stash-reduction project. I had 9 balls of this rather nice cotton yarn, Skacel Tola, that I had picked up on sale at some point, and concluded I ought to be able to make a wearable object from it. So it’s a raglan I made up with some mild shaping, a lace panel from the Susanna Lewis “Knitted Lace” book that my dad got me for this past Christmas, with the “fern” motifs fudged a bit for shaping in the sleeves. I didn’t like how it sat with the rolled edge I had originally planned so it would be a slouchy sweater, so I added a few rows of crochet edging to the bottom. And I may do the same to the 3/4 length sleeves. It ended up using 6.25 balls of yarn — about 600 yards all told.

Photo Gallery for the green raglan


The front… or maybe the back depending on how glaring I really feel like the one major error in it is… of a tank I’m making up to use about 500 yards of sort of sport weight single-ply tussah that I spun and dyed this past spring. This is pattern #78 from that same Lewis book. I think I’m going to block this and then press it, once I’ve finished the pieces, and before assembly. But it’s too hot to keep working with sticky staticky silk yarn right now. So more another time.

Photo Gallery for the tussah lace tank

Oil Slick Yarn, or When Spindles Save The Day

I had packed 500 yards and over 5 oz on the Woolee Winder and…

http://ucan.foad.org/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=oil-slick

I just could not get the last little bit on there. So I wound all 3 plies into a pull-from-either-end butterfly type thing (hey, it works!) and then took the *other* end of the 3, and plied it with a drop spindle, and…

And then I had to feed it all back through the orifice, and 2 circles on the woolee winder, without tangling it, so that I could skein it off the wheel, and get…

Drop spindle saves the day! It’s a merino/tussah 50/50 blend that I had lying around, which is dark charcoal grey, with varied colour silks space-spun in different colours intentionally ummmm… and then with another ply that’s similar except less silk and it has some firestar, and a 3rd ply that is opalescent mylar or something like that, and the spacing of the colour repeats and the sequence of how they’re done, I’m expecting is going to work out so that the resulting shawl, which is for ME to keep in the office and use when it’s cold and I wore a t-shirt, is going to look like an oil slick on asphalt.

Anyway, this skein, which is a little less than half, is 530 yards / 5.5 oz. And the other skein is going to be larger so I’ll have to repeat the ply-the-last-bit-with-dropspindle trick… oof.

Dang shawl better come out how I want.

Boucle Gallery

A few highlights from my photo gallery for the study I did in 2004 of handspun boucle yarns, found here: http://ucan.foad.org/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=boucles


The first, a blend of New Zealand Brush Tail Possum (whatever that is, it’s neat stuff though) and coopworth, with rayon binder. I tried to do this all 3 strands at once and it’s not a stable yarn. Therefore I’m stuck coming up with a project for it and working with its flaws.


“Tropical Rainbow Skeinbert”
Emma will be shaking her head over the flaws in this one, which is a true boucle and tolerably stable, but is the first I would deem so.


“Cadbury Foil”
A more stable boucle from a coopworth single from that same ebay source, ebay user jjfarm, that all these coopworth blends came from. 394 yards, 9.875 ounces.


“Dandelion Fields”
I dyed this yearling mohair bright freakin’ green. This time, I tried pills23′s sequence with twist direction, and got a too-twisty result which does have perfect little mohair loops in it. I think a washing and beating up will help this skein a lot. 133 yards, 3.375 ounces.


“Cranberry Garland”
Z tussah silk single, Z nylon core, Z plied together, then S plied again with the binder, this one is absolutely the best of the lot. I’m going to repeat this with other colours and other binders, with more tussah silk. 306 yards, 2.5 ounces

I have at least 3 more already-spun yarns to turn into boucles here, haha. A few more good evenings and I’ll be done, and totally sick of plying.

Tropical Rainbow Skeinbert: Boucle

First you take this:


(coopworth/alpaca blend from Jehovah Jireh Farm)

and then you make it into this handspun single-ply yarn:

Which then in turn gets plied with this iridescent commercial flossy stuff for a binder:

And then it looks like this:

Then, ply it one more time with the binder, in the opposite direction from the last ply, the same direction in which the original single was spun, and when you skein it you get:


…what my better half named TROPICAL RAINBOW SKEINBERT!

Crochet Shawl from Handspun Singles

From yarn that I spun from fibers that I dyed and blended… mohair/soy silk for the pinkish, mohair/tussah silk for the white, and tussah silk dyed with easter egg dye for the “mouldy green” part. All are single-ply yarns, and I did the blending with a drum carder.


Raw materials… er at least, partly done materials…


The ol’ “Point the camera at the mirror” trick! Hah!

Oh… scads and scads more photos of this hard-to-photograph object. It’s terribly pastel, yes… but it does have nice colours, and feels extremely soft and fuzzy.

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